Hair Wash 1 cedi, Hair Cut 5 cedis, Liberation Priceless

I awoke at 6:30 a.m. this morning, determined to do the second most courageous thing I’ve ever done with regard to my appearance. I was on a Tro Tro by 7 am and we were moving by 7:10 am. Accompanied by my ipod and Toni Morrison’s Paradise, I made the most of our 2 hour journey to Accra. When we arrived at Tema Station, I asked for directions to the area where I could catch a Tro Tro to Osu, an upscale area of Accra where “Exotic Trendz” hair salon is located. A guy by the name of Pheore was headed in the same direction but to our dismay, all the roads to Osu had been blocked due to Obama’s arrival. Not knowing what to do next, I found myself following Pheore out of the Tema Station and through side streets…he had decided to walk to Osu. As we walked, we talked about Obama, school, work, future plans, etc., which helped pass the time. I had no idea how far Osu was from Tema station but I was so excited that I didn’t have to pay 4 cedis for a taxi, that I didn’t really care. Looking for Exotic Trenz turned out to be a hassle. Here, when you ask people for directions, they point in wayward directions but never give any specific information, so needless to say, I couldn’t find it. As Pheore was dialing a cousin who could possibly help, we passed a salon that said cutting on the sign and I decided to go in and ask if they could cut my hair. They said they could and for only 5 cedi.

Backtrack…I’ve never wanted to cut my hair. Even today as I sat in the chair watching my hair fall to the floor, I thought I would cry. My hair length is something I have taken so much pride in over the years. When I got it layered in high school, it was nice, it had body, but then the body went and the length just got shorter and shorter until I said enough and stopped going to the hair dresser all together. So, today, naturally, was very significant for me. I chopped off my pride and joy and the greatest part about it is that as the shape of the small afro began to form, I couldn’t control my smiling. It was so perfect, so light, so f the world’s standards of beauty, so Angela Davis, so 70s, so edgy…and most importantly so me. As my barber walked with me back to toward the Tema station, we took a detour to see the President’s castle, which is right on the ocean front. We walked by colorful fisherman’s boats and tons of trash along the shore line (sigh) but the best part of our walk was what how it felt. I felt like I was making a statement and people were so responsive to it. Just imagine being the only person walking down the street in Africa wearing their natural hair…big and unapologetic. Two girls in a shop that sells accessories for Queen Mothers and Chiefs motioned for us to come over and they began outfitting me with crowns, necklaces, bangles, and scarves. We took pictures and laughed…who knew hair could cause so much commotion and happiness.

It’s so strange that even the texture seems different. I see more S curls and they stayed even after my hair dried. I spent 3 hours travelling back to Aburi due to traffic and all, so now I’m tired and need to get something to eat but my excitement hasn’t faded and I can’t wait to walk through town with my new hairdo.